Check out my collection of HomePod resources below...including repair methods, parts for common issues, mail-in service, and more
Check out my collection of HomePod resources below...including repair methods, parts for common issues, mail-in service, and more
When HomePods were first released, everyone thought total destruction was required to get inside. Thanks to ouitmenick's work we've learned there is a clean, non-destructive way to get in!
After buying a few broken HomePods from eBay to fix for myself, I started noticing common issues, with little to no information or options available on how to diagnose or repair them, and sought to change that.
Does your HomePod rattle, crackle, or fart?
Worried about that popping sound when you wake it up?
Re-usable gaskets built-in allow you to disassemble and reassemble your HomePod multiple times without affecting the looks or sound.
As much as we've been able to fix so far...if your HomePod boots to flashing volume buttons, or just shows the spinning white animation forever, and won't let you factory reset, at this time I am unable to repair these issues or find good logic boards to offer replacements. If you can source another HomePod for parts with a good logic board, I am happy to do the swap for you. See the blinking buttons common issues section for more info.
Every mail-in repair comes with complimentary detailing and cleaning to the best of our abilities using 99% isopropyl alcohol and very tiny tweezers.
1: Send me an email with what you need or what is wrong with your HomePod. If you haven't gotten a response within 24 hours, it may have been blocked or sent to spam.
2: Carefully pack and ship your HomePod to my UPS mailbox address (all carriers accepted) as shown below. Do not forget to include #341 in the address or I won't get it!
12819 SE 38th St #341
Bellevue, WA 98006
3: I'll let you know when it arrives and do the work same-day on stream.
4: I'll update you again once complete if repairs were as estimated for payment2 and return shipping. If things aren't going as planned, we can re-estimate and proceed, or halt and do no repairs for no charge.
5: Your HomePod will be on it's way back to you the next day!
All parts and labor are guaranteed for one year.1 If I can't fix it, you don't pay!
The following are all of the issues encountered or reported, and any known ways to diagnose and repair.
HomePod will power on, but usually ends up with flashing / blinking volume lights, and probably won't factory reset.
Some users report this issue temporarily goes away if you power cycle or manage to factory reset it. Some are even able to successfully update to the latest OS. Unfortunately all of them will shortly after stop working and again become stuck on flashing volume lights.
Apple has not publicly confirmed what the root cause of this is, and no one outside knows for certain yet, however, I am betting this is a failing A8 SoC, either the RAM, CPU, or solder joints for them. I cannot find replacement A8 SoC chips specifically for the HomePod, though they share a similar A8 with the iPhone 6(s), this swap has not yet been attempted. Then, will the existing software / firmware on your existing NAND play nice with your new A8 SoC, or will unique IDs and software need to be reprogrammed, too?
Apple has not released any restorable firmware / software for original Apple HomePods, so whether this is ultimately a software or hardware issue, there is no known way to repair this! Very frustrating considering there is USB access to connect a HomePod to a computer, and various software detects and recognizes a HomePod is connected, but again there are no available restorable IPSWs to even attempt this. I made a reddit post showing my attempt following a github guide to connect to HomePod via USB and demonstrate this. I've also tried dumping the firmware from working HomePods, but I have not been able to get tools like iPwnDFU to properly recognize them.
The HomePod is based on the A8 so it should be permanently vulnerable to checkm8 exploits, I just do not have the skills to work with them. Feel free to contact me if you are interested in giving it a try, I will give you remote access to a Mac, Windows, or Linux device connected to a good and bad HomePod via USB.
Myself and others have tried baking / reflowing every chip on the logic board multiple times with no success. I have replaced the PMIC on the logic board with one from an iPhone 6 and found, while this part is compatible, this did not resolve the issue. User "mlogicrepair" shared in our discord server their progress attempting to replace the A8 SoC. Check back for the latest progress.
No power, no lights, and no response. Power draw at the outlet will be around 1-10 Watts. If left plugged in for some time, the side of the HomePod gets slightly warmer.
Diode is located on the amplifier board. Use a multimeter in continuity test mode to test if diode is shorted by placing one probe onto the larger pin of the diode, and the other probe on one of the two smaller pins of the diode. If meter shows it's shorted, move probe from first small pin to other small pin. If you still see a short, remove the diode and test with the diode off the board. If just the diode shows shorted and not the board, replace the diode. Part number "PDS560-13" is a suitable replacement.
Unknown why it fails, seems like a bad batch. These types of diodes can also fail short when subject to overvoltage, or if overheated. Suspected that diodes with date code "1748K" are a bad batch and should be replaced if seen regardless of condition. Many confirmations that diodes with older and newer date codes are still functional.
No power, no lights, and no response. Power draw at the outlet will be 0 Watts.
Fuse is located on the underside of the power supply board. Use multimeter in continuity mode to test if fuse was blown open. If open, replace with another 15Amp 250V fuse.
The fuse will blow if there is a power surge from the AC power source, or can break open if the HomePod is dropped.
Symptoms can include any of the following; A noticable "pop" sound as the HomePod goes into standby after ~10 minutes of inactivity, or when waking up from standby. Crackling / buzzing sound during music playback at higher volumes. Death farts and unexpected restarts while playing music or not. Symptoms for DC Offset can be hard to differentiate from a bad subwoofer speaker as described below without some disassembly.
DC offset is when the amplifier has a DC voltage across the speaker output. When quiescent, normally the subwoofer rests in a neutral middle of it's magnetic field, but dc offset will cause it to be displaced forward or backward from that mid-point, impacting amplifier and speaker performance making them work harder, and resulting in the "pop" sound as the amp is turned on or off as part of standby mode.
There are four capacitors that are supposed to remove this DC before being amplified and sent to the speaker. They are located on the amplifier board between the DAC and amp IC. You can replace them with 10uF, size 1206, X7R, 5-10%, rated for 16v or better. With my repairs, I use something slightly overbuilt like part number C1206C106J3RACAUTO.
The big black resistor on the amplifier board next to the subwoofer connector is often a victim, too. When it is bad, it is usually obviously damaged. You can measure it's resistance while still installed on the board. This is a 10Ohm, 1Watt, 1% Tolerance, 200V rated, 1218 size resistor (I use part number RCL121810R0FKEK.)
It is normal to hear a quiter pop, and if you experience no other issues you should not be concerned. The only way to tell for certain if your popping needs to be addressed requires some disassembly;
1) Remove the subwoofer and place it to the side, carefully reconnect everything and power on the HomePod and ensure it's not in standby, then carefully disconnect and reconnect the subwoofer a few times. If you hear a pop every time you do so, the capacitors need to be replaced. If you hear no popping, no action needs to be taken.
2) With the HomePod powered on, not in standby, and subwoofer connected, measure the DC voltage with a multimeter across the subwoofer speaker terminals, there is a place to probe on the woofer right under where the speaker wires connect, polarity does not matter. The amp IC is rated for up to +/-18mV DC, which amplifies to around +/-200mV DC at the subwoofer, any more than this is when you can start having more issues than just popping. Most generally consider no more than +/-50mV DC at the speaker acceptable.
If DC offset is not repaired by replacing these capacitors, it can eventually grow and damage more components.
Symptoms may include low, missing, or dirty sounding bass, clicking, or ticking sounds. Symptoms for a bad subwoofer can be hard to differentiate from the DC Offset issue above without some disassembly.
Two easy tests to tell if your subwoofer speaker is bad;
1: Gently push the speaker straight in, not too much, and release a few times; This should feel perfectly smooth, and make no sound, otherwise your speaker is almost certainly dead.
2: Inspect the condition of the voice coil through a hole in the side of the subwoofer speaker basket; A vibrant, uniform copper color is a sign of a healthy voice coil.
It's rare for the amp IC to be the source of any problems, unless it is obviously damaged, you should first diagnose for other issues described above in the popping section and test your subwoofer speaker.
Amp IC is located on the bottom side of the amp board. The amp IC may or may not have obvious visual damage and there is no great way to diagnose without replacing it. HomePods will power on with the amp IC removed. Do not be fooled by the PIN1 identifier mark in the bottom left corner of the chip.
The OEM amp IC (part number 98-0431) is available on Aliexpress for a limited time. Part number IR4312M is available from multiple component sellers and is also a suitable alternative, but is being discontinued.
The amp IC can fail on it's own, or if it's subject to too much DC voltage as a result of failing capacitors (see popping section above).
I've had a couple of these where everything worked fine, but it sounded like there was plastic rattling around inside. You could even hear it if you picked up the HomePod and shook it! Usually the culprit is some of the plastic frame that holds the logic board has broken off and is now bouncing around your woofer.
Pull your logic board out and check for broken loose plastic. You can try to glue and plastic weld the broken parts back together or ride without it.
Often times the main ribbon cable that connects the logic board to the amplifier board has been damaged or improperly reinstalled.
Damage: Thoroughly inspect the entire ribbon cable for any tears, cracks, or other damage. This cable is commonly damaged from rough handling when disconnecting the logic board, where the end of the cable connecting to the logic board will crack / tear. Another common mistake is accidentally damaging the cable while trying to pry the top basket off.
Installation: The most common mistake made when reassembling your HomePod is an incorrect installation of the main ribbon cable. On the amplifier board connector, the locked position will actually look open, and unlocked actually looks closed! Verify you have properly locked the cable in by pressing the locking clip down, and that the white line on the cable is level with the top of the connector! Improper installation may lead to permanent damage resulting in no sound or power. I've even done this once myself and lost both the amp and logic board's sound, and have yet to figure out how to repair it.
*shipping not included. Prices are based on "best case and most likely scenario." More involved repairs may be charged extra.
Shipping: Usually $15-$30 Each Way
Shipping is not included in any repair estimates. I generally see shipping cost between $15-$30 each way. Buying a shipping label in store will cost more than purchasing a shipping label online. I use pirateship.com, it's entirely free, I get labels and insurance from UPS and USPS for even less, and it's worked reliably. I do not know how much your return shipping will be without your return shipping address and shipping dimensions and/or until your HomePod arrives.
The most common issue HomePods come in for. Typically involves disassembly / reassembly, diagnosing and replacing a shorted s.b. diode. More info in the no power section!
Popping, Fart of Death, Crackling: $60
Repair for symptoms including; "Death farts", crackling sound when playing music, loud "pop" sound whenever it goes in and out of standby, and other bass issues. Will also check and replace s.b. diode if date code is within range of suspected bad batch to prevent future no-power issues.
You do not need to get your HomePod repaired if you just have the popping sound and it's almost too quiet to hear, and you experience no other issues. This is normal.
If you do experience issues, and / or the popping is rather noticable, it is likely a sign of failing capacitors resulting in an increasing DC offset, and should be repaired before any damage occurs. More info in the popping section!
No Bass: $70-$80
If your HomePod sounds like it's missing the bass / subwoofer entirely, it may be the subwoofer speaker ($80), or amplifier IC ($70). Will also diagnose and repair for any DC Offset issues that may have caused it, and check and replace s.b. diode if date code is within range of suspected bad batch to prevent future no-power issues.
Flashing / Blinking Volume Lights: No Known Fix Yet
I am unable to offer logic board repairs for this specific issue yet, unless you can provide another HomePod for parts with a good logic board to swap for you. More information in the blinking lights common issue section. I urge you to contact Apple to help us with a solution!
Just Board Repair: Contact Me
Want to take your own HomePod apart, but not sure about the board repair? Send in just the board and pay less on repairs! Boards with prior repair attempts will be charged extra.
Got Something Else?
While I specialize in HomePod repairs, I also do many basic repairs on computers and phones! Contact me with what you need and we'll get it fixed!
Want to say thanks?
Click the speaker below to donate via PayPal! Or, send in your parts to help others, I'll pay for shipping. You can also donate to my CashApp at $NicSplatts. Anything helps towards the cost of tools, parts, and more broken homepods, to share new and higher quality repairs!