Busted HomePod?

Welcome to my HomePod Repair project! Here you will find a list of common issues, how to diagnose, repair, or see repair estimates and mail yours in!

"I kept dreaming of a world I thought I'd never see.

But then one day,

I got in."

When HomePods were first released, everyone thought total destruction was required to get inside. Thanks to ouitmenick's work we've learned there is a clean, non-destructive way to get in!

After buying a few broken HomePods from eBay to fix for myself, I started noticing common issues, with little to no information or options available on how to diagnose or repair them, and sought to change that.

Big Dirty Bass Problems

Does your HomePod rattle, crackle, or fart?

"Hey Siri!"
*pop*

Worried about that popping sound when you wake it up?

What Can You Fix?

The following can be repaired; No Power, Loud Popping / DC Offset / Death Farts / Crackling, Rattling, Dead Bass, Display / Touch Issues, and more!

What Can't You Fix?

HomePods with flashing / blinking volume buttons cannot be repaired without providing another working logic board for swapping. See the blinking buttons common issues section for more info.

Mesh cleaning
and replacement.

Every mail-in repair comes with complimentary detailing and cleaning to the best of our abilities using 99% isopropyl alcohol and very tiny tweezers.





Fast and Affordable Service that You Can Watch

Forget about paying hundreds of dollars and waiting for weeks to end up with a "refurbished" HomePod with the same potential faults. Repairs are livestreamed on YouTube, then shipped out the next day!

Fix it Yourself

Visit my YouTube channel for videos showing how to diagnose and repair many of the issues covered here, or catch a live stream repair!

You're also invited to my discord server to get help, share your results, and anything else.

The Common Issues section covers all of the common repairs and parts needed.

A small selection of used parts are available here!

Get it Fixed for You

1: Check Repair Estimates to see if your issue is repairable first!

2: Send me an email with what is wrong with your HomePod.
*If you haven't gotten a response within 48 hours, it may have been blocked or sent to spam, feel free to send me another message.

3: Carefully pack and ship your HomePod to my UPS mailbox address (all carriers accepted) as shown below. You must include #341 in the address!

Nic Splatts
12819 SE 38th St #341
Bellevue, WA 98006

4: I'll let you know when it arrives and do the work same-day on stream.

5: I'll update you again once complete if repairs were as estimated for payment2 and return shipping. If things aren't going as planned, we can re-estimate and proceed, or halt and do no repairs for no charge.

6: Your HomePod will be on it's way back to you the next day! Once you get it back, leave a review on TrustPilot!

See shipping tips for best practices when shipping HomePods to prevent damage in transit.

Contact Me



If you live outside the US:

Repairs from all over the world are accepted, whether you want to send in your whole pod, or just the component that needs repair...though shipping may get expensive.

Below you'll find a list of international repair partners. Feel free to contact me to be added!

United Kingdom:
Dwight Grant
[email protected]

France:
Quentin
https://www.sauvemonmac.com/
[email protected]

100% Satisfaction, 100% Guaranteed.

All parts and labor are guaranteed for up to 6 months.1 If I can't fix it, you don't pay!



Packing and Shipping Your HomePod

Sufficiently pack your HomePod whenever shipping it to avoid any damage. The original boxes work well when used properly and packed well inside another box, but good packing ALL around just a HomePod works just as well.



If you are shipping with the original box, with power cable installed, the trick is to coil the cable up, then stuff the cable into the box, then place the HomePod inside.

*Try to keep the any of the cable from popping out as you insert the HomePod, otherwise it will sit on the cable and can deform the mesh.

Once you have the lid on your original box, flip it upside-down and tape the lid onto the bottom to keep it all from coming loose in transit.

*If the lid comes loose, it gives too much room for your HomePod to move around, and allows the power cable to creep up the box and possibly deform your mesh.

You can remove and reconnect the power cable on your HomePod for simpler, safer packing if desired. To remove the power cable, first disconnect from power, then place the HomePod on a solid surface. Hold the HomePod down with one hand, then firmly grasp and pull or yank the power cable with your other hand. To reinstall the power cable, simply re-insert it the correct orientation, and push the connector into the HomePod until it makes a loud click.

How to Pack Pod w/ Cable in Original Box
Pack it Well, All Around
Original Box Cut in Half; Correct
Original Box Cut in Half; Inorrect
How to Disconnect & Reconnect Cable
Avoid Doing This




Common Issues

The following are all of the issues encountered or reported, and any known ways to diagnose and repair. You can right-click and open the images in a new tab for a larger view.



Flashing Volume Lights - Dying A8 SoC? (NO KNOWN FIX YET)

Symptoms: HomePod will power on, but usually ends up with flashing / blinking volume lights, and probably won't factory reset.

Some users report this issue temporarily goes away if you power cycle or manage to factory reset it. Some are even able to successfully update to the latest OS. Unfortunately all of them will shortly after stop working and again become stuck on flashing volume lights.

Arbitrarily Irrepairable...
Apple has not publicly confirmed what the root cause of this is, and no one outside knows for certain yet, but based on multiple reports with different behaviors, I think there are a few reasons why your HomePod would end up with this; An interrupted software update has been confirmed to be one way, or, a failing A8 SoC or it's BGA. I cannot find replacement A8 SoC chips for the HomePod, and the A8 SoC is married to the NAND anyways.

Software Repair Attempts: Apple has not released any restorable firmware / software for original HomePods, so whether this is a software, or hardware issue, there is no publicly known way to repair this! It is physically possible, there is USB access to connect a HomePod to a computer, and various software detects and recognizes a HomePod is connected, but there are no restorable IPSWs publicly available to restore from when you get this far.

I made a reddit post showing my attempt following a github guide to connect to HomePod via USB. I've been unsuccessful dumping the firmware from working HomePods, tools like iPwnDFU seem to not work.

The HomePod is based on the A8 so it should be permanently vulnerable to checkm8 exploits. Feel free to contact me if you are interested in giving it a try, I can give you remote access to a Mac, Windows, or Linux device connected to a good and bad HomePod via USB.

Hardware Repair Attempts: Myself and others have tried baking / reflowing every chip on the logic board multiple times with no success. I have replaced the PMIC on the logic board with one from an iPhone 6 and found, while this part is compatible (lol) this did not resolve the issue. User "mlogicrepair" shared in our discord server their progress attempting to replace the A8 SoC. /u/dzsenos had their A8 SoC and NAND professionally reballed and it did not resolve the issue.

Why can't Apple just let us restore them?

Debug Port Under Rubber Foot of HomePod
Finder Unable to Restore
Used PMIC from iPhone 6 Works but Same Issue
"mlogicrepair" with old A8 SoC and Storage NAND off


No Power - Shorted S.B. Diode

Symptoms: No power, no lights, and no response. Power draw at the outlet will be around 1-10 Watts. If left plugged in for some time, the side of the HomePod gets slightly warmer.

Diagnosis: Diode is located on the amplifier board. Use a multimeter in continuity test mode to test if diode is shorted by placing one probe onto the larger pin of the diode, and the other probe on one of the two smaller pins of the diode. If meter shows it's shorted, move probe from first small pin to other small pin. If you still see a short, remove the diode and test with the diode off the board. If just the diode shows shorted and not the board, replace the diode.

Repair: Replace shorted diode with new 60V 5A S.B. Diode, can replace with part number "PDS560-13". Video guide available on YouTube.

Root Cause: The specific cause in HomePods is unknown. These diodes failure mode is to short when overvolted or overheated. Comparing HomePods that come in for repair for unrelated issues, if their s.b. diode is still working, it usually is much newer or older than diodes that have failed. I suspect that diodes with date code "1746K-1748K" are a bad batch, and should be replaced if seen regardless of condition.

Diode Location Inside HomePod
Diode Location On Removed Amp Board
Diode Date Code


No Power - Blown Power Supply Fuse

Symptoms: No power, no lights, and no response. Power draw at the outlet will be 0 Watts.

Diagnosis: Fuse is located on the underside of the power supply board. Use multimeter in continuity mode to test if fuse was blown open.

Repair: If fuse is blown you should replace it with another "T3.15AH250V" fuse.

Root Cause: The fuse will blow as a result of a surge from the AC power source. A quality surge protector should help prevent this. Power strips alone provide no protection.

Fuse Location On Power Supply
Probe Points While Installed


No Power - Short on Logic Board

Symptoms: No power, no lights, and no response. Power draw at the outlet may be a few Watts. You may hear a quiet ticking / squealing sound from the logic board. Logic board may start to warm up.

Diagnosis: I have only seen two HomePods with No Power caused by this...in both cases, there was a shorted capacitor on the logic board. Both logic boards shorts were in different locations. You should be able to locate them with traditional short-finding methods like a thermal camera or applying flux or alcohol to the board and looking for smoke or bubbles.

Repair: Replace any shorted components! Since there are no schematics, the exact replacement components are unknown. You can harvest them from a bricked logic board, or ask me to check with a parts board! I have a brief repair video showing diagnosis and repair for one on YouTube.

Root Cause: Given that I've only seen this issue twice, both times from different shorts on the logic board, I'm guessing this is simply a case of capacitors just going bad. It happens.

Bad Cap Location on One Logic Board
Flux Smokes When Applied to Shorted Cap


Popping, Clicking, Death Farts, & Crackling - DC Offset (Failing Capacitors)

Symptoms: Can include any of the following; A noticable "pop" sound as the HomePod goes into standby after ~10 minutes of inactivity, or when waking up from standby. Crackling / buzzing sound during music playback at higher volumes. Death farts and unexpected restarts while playing music or not. Symptoms for DC Offset can be hard to differentiate from a bad subwoofer speaker as described below without some disassembly. It is normal to hear a quiter pop, and if you experience no other issues, you should not be concerned.

Diagnosis: The only way to tell for certain if your popping needs to be addressed requires some disassembly...

1: Remove the subwoofer and place it to the side, carefully reconnect everything and power on the HomePod and ensure it's not in standby, then carefully disconnect and reconnect the subwoofer a few times. If you hear the pop every time you do so, move on to the next step. If you hear no popping, no action needs to be taken.

2: With the HomePod powered on, not in standby, and subwoofer connected, measure the DC voltage with a multimeter across the subwoofer speaker terminals. There is a place to probe on the woofer, where the speaker wires connect, polarity does not matter. The amp IC's input is rated for up to +/-18mV DC, which amplifies to the woofer at around +/-200mV DC, any more than this is when you can start having more issues than just popping. Most generally consider no more than +/-50mV DC at the speaker acceptable.

Repair: There are four capacitors that are supposed to remove this DC before being amplified and sent to the speaker. They are located on the amplifier board, between the DAC and amp IC. If you measured a significant amount of DC, you need to replace them with new capacitors of 10uF, size 1206, X7R, 5-10%, rated for 16v or better. I have been using EMK316AB7106KL-T with great success resulting in <5mV of DC offset. I have a repair video replacing these capacitors on YouTube.

The big black resistor on the amplifier board next to the subwoofer connector is believed to often be a casualty with too much DC offset. When it is bad, it is usually obviously damaged. You can measure it's resistance while still installed on the board. This is a 10Ohm, 1Watt, 1% Tolerance, 200V rated, 1218 size resistor, and can be replaced with part number RCL121810R0FKEK.

You will also want to inspect your subwoofer speaker for damage to the voice coil from too much DC, see the next Common Issue below for more detail on that.

Root Cause: DC offset is when the amplifier has a DC voltage across the speaker output. When quiescent, normally the subwoofer rests in a neutral middle of it's magnetic field, but dc offset will cause it to be displaced forward or backward from that mid-point, impacting amplifier and speaker performance making them work harder, and resulting in the "pop" sound as the amp is turned on or off as part of standby mode.If DC offset is not repaired by replacing these capacitors, it can eventually grow and damage more components. I have a livestream of a repair where it needed all new capacitors, resistor, and subwoofer here.

Subwoofer Probe Points
Capacitors Location On Amp Board
Blown Resistor on Amp Board


No Bass or Clicking - Damaged or Dead Subwoofer Speaker

Symptoms: May include low, missing, or dirty sounding bass, clicking, or ticking sounds. Symptoms for a bad subwoofer can be hard to differentiate from the DC Offset issue above without some disassembly.

Diagnosis: Two easy tests to tell if your subwoofer speaker is bad;

1: Gently push the speaker straight in, not too much, and release a few times; This should feel perfectly smooth, and make no sound, otherwise your speaker is almost certainly dead.

2: Inspect the condition of the voice coil through the hole in the side of the subwoofer speaker basket; A vibrant, uniform copper color is a sign of a healthy voice coil!

If your subwoofer is damaged, it is likely from DC Offset, which should also be diagnosed per the Common Issue above.

Repair: I'm not aware of any off the shelf replacement speakers. I have some good used subwoofers available for sale in the Parts section! Be sure you diagnose and repair any DC Offset before replacing your subwoofer.

Root Cause: Most often a result of too much DC Offset! Sometimes they can also just fail on their own eventually, but it is rare.

Good Voice Coil
Burned Voice Coil
Voice Coil Inspection Port on Woofer
Do the Doof Test


No Bass - Dead Amplifier IC

Symptoms: It's rare for the amp IC to be the source of any problems, unless it is obviously damaged, you should first diagnose for other issues described above.

Diagnosis: Amp IC is located on the bottom side of the amp board. The amp IC may or may not have obvious visual damage and there is no great way to diagnose without replacing it. HomePods will power on with the amp IC removed! Do not be fooled by the PIN1 identifier mark in the bottom left corner of the chip.

Repair: The OEM amp IC (part number 98-0431) is available on Aliexpress for a limited time. Part number IR4312M is available from multiple component sellers and is also a suitable alternative, but is being discontinued.

Root Cause: The amp IC can fail on it's own, or if it's subject to too much DC voltage as a result of failing capacitors. More info on that in the DC Offset Common Issue above!

Amp IC Location on Amp Board
A Clearly Dead Amp IC
Amp IC Pin 1 Identifier


Rattling Sound and.or Touch / Display Issues - Damaged Logic Board Frame or Display Cable

Symptoms: HomePod may or may not be working fine. You may hear rattling when you shake it, or have touch / display issues, even making it appear that the HomePod isn't powering on or only briefly powers on.

Diagnosis: Pull your logic board out and check for broken loose plastic. You can try to glue and plastic weld the broken parts back together, or replace the top basket entirely. Thoroughly inspect logic cable, display cable, and connectors for any damage.

Repair: Not recommended to ignore this otherwise the logic board can shift enough to push the display cable into the frame and cut into it, causing weird power / display / touch issues.

Root Cause: Usually this is from some of the frame holding the logic board breaking off as a result of drop damage. Ensure you pack your Pod properly whenever shipping it!

Broken Plastic From logic Board Frame
Display Cable Cut From Board Shift


Help! I took my own HomePod apart and now there's No Sound or Power!

Often times the main ribbon cable that connects the logic board to the amplifier board has been damaged or improperly reinstalled.

Damage: Thoroughly inspect the entire ribbon cable for any tears, cracks, or other damage. This cable is commonly damaged from rough handling when disconnecting the logic board, where the end of the cable connecting to the logic board will crack / tear. Another common mistake is accidentally damaging the cable while trying to pry the top basket off.

Installation: The most common mistake made when reassembling your HomePod is an incorrect installation of the main ribbon cable. On the amplifier board connector, the locked position will actually look open, and unlocked actually looks closed! Verify you have properly locked the cable in by pressing the locking clip down, and that the white line on the cable is level with the top of the connector! Improper installation may lead to permanent damage resulting in no sound or power. I've even done this once myself and lost both the amp and logic board's sound, and have yet to figure out how to repair it.

If you've damaged any parts during your repair attempts, I have some parts available for sale here!

Torn Cable From Pulling on Logic Board
Damaged Cable from Prying Top Basket
Unlocked, Crooked Cable
Locked, Level Cable
Don't Do This!
Do This!

Repair Estimates

*shipping not included. Prices are based on "best case and most likely scenario." More involved repairs may be charged extra.



Shipping: Usually $10-$30 Each Way

Shipping is not included in any repair estimates. I usually see shipping cost between $10-$30 each way depending on weight and distance. You can purchase your own return shipping label and provide it to me, or I can include return shipping in the repair charge.

Buying a shipping label in store will cost more than purchasing a shipping label online. I use pirateship.com, it's entirely free, I get labels and insurance from UPS and USPS for even less, and it's worked reliably.

No-Power: $60

The most common issue HomePods come in for. Typically involves disassembly / reassembly, diagnosing and replacing a shorted s.b. diode. Will also check for any DC Offset and repair if needed. More technical info in the no power section!

Popping, Fart of Death, Crackling: $60

Repair for symptoms including; "Death farts", crackling sound when playing music, loud "pop" sound whenever it goes in and out of standby, and other bass issues. Typically involves disassembly / reassembly, diagnosing DC Offset and replacing filtering capacitors. Will also check and replace s.b. diode if date code is within range of suspected bad batch to prevent future no-power issues.

You do not need to get your HomePod repaired if you just have the popping sound and it's almost too quiet to hear, and you experience no other issues. This is normal.

If you do experience issues, and / or the popping is rather noticable, it is likely a sign of failing capacitors resulting in an increasing DC offset, and should be repaired before any damage occurs. More info in the popping section!

No Bass: $70-$80

If your HomePod sounds like it's missing the bass and needs a new woofer or amplifier, this is usually the most involved and expensive repairs will get. Will not exceed $80 even if your woofer and/or amplifier board needs replaced entirely. Will also diagnose and repair any DC Offset issues that may have caused it, and check and replace s.b. diode if date code is within range of suspected bad batch to prevent future no-power issues.

Flashing / Blinking Volume Lights: No Known Fix Yet

No known fix for blinking / flashing volume buttons, I am unable to offer repairs for this unless you can provide another HomePod for parts with a good logic board to swap for you. More information in the blinking lights common issue section. I urge you to contact Apple to help us with a solution!

Just Board Repair: Contact Me

Want to take your own HomePod apart, but not sure about the board repair? Send in just the board and pay less on repairs! *Boards with prior repair attempts may be charged extra.

Got Something Else?

While I specialize in HomePod repairs, I also do many basic repairs on computers and phones! Contact me with what you need and we'll get it fixed!





Used Parts Shop

Everything is pulled from original HomePods and thoroughly tested. Tax and Shipping added during checkout. For orders with multiple items, I will combine shipping and refund you any extra charges when possible.

Screws can be included for any of your parts upon request free of charge! Just ask or leave a note in your order.

For shipping outside of the US, please contact me first!

Check back every other day for new parts!



Speakers


Subwoofer, $50

Tweeter, $10





Cables


Logic to Display, $10
OEM Part Number 821-01259-04

Subwoofer, $10
OEM Part Number 43025

Internal AC Connector, $20
OEM Part Number 43645

Main Logic Cable, $30
OEM Part Number 821-00548-07
Limit one per person!



Misc.


Touch / Display Board, $30
OEM Part Number 820-00965-03
Re-usable adhesive

Power Supply, $30
2949022004 / Model ADP-60EF S
All PSUs are 110-220V

Microphone Suplicity Board, $15
OEM Part Number 820-00632-03
Re-usable Adhesive

Microphones, $15
OEM Part Number 821-00834-04
Will come with mic screens
May need some adhesive


Top Basket w/ Lower Rings, $20

Top Basket Only, $15

*Note: Top basket will show light pry marks from removal. This is purely cosmetic, and has no effect on the sound, seal, or looks of your HomePod once you put it back together.



Need a specific component picked off a board? Shoot me a message!

Coming Soon: Amplifier Boards, C-F Grade Top Covers, B-F Grade Meshes, A-F Grade Rubber Bases, Bricked Logic Boards, and more!

Want to say thanks?

Click the speaker below to donate via PayPal! Or, send in your parts to help others, I'll pay for shipping. You can also donate to my CashApp at $NicSplatts. Anything helps towards the cost of tools, parts, and more broken homepods, to share new and higher quality repairs!