Welcome to my HomePod Repair project! Here you will find a list of common issues, how to diagnose, repair, or see repair estimates and mail yours in! When HomePod first released, everyone thought total destruction was required to get inside and there was no way to repair it. Thanks to ouitmenick's work, there is a clean, non-destructive way to get in! But, many issues were still considered irrepairable... With a way in, I got my hands on some broken homepods and dug into these issues, identifying the faults, and repairing them for myself until I built up the experience and confidence to offer repairs for others. Now, over 300 HomePods have been sent in from around the world and successfully repaired!
"I kept dreaming of a world I thought I'd never see. But then one day,
I got in."
Big Dirty Bass Problems
Does your HomePod rattle, crackle, or fart?
"Hey Siri!" *pop*
Worried about that popping sound when you wake it up?
What Can You Fix?
The following can be repaired; No Power, Death Farts, Bass or Sound Issues, Certain Physical Damage, and More!
"And More? What Can't You Fix?"
HomePods with flashing / blinking volume buttons, boot loops, or other software issues cannot be repaired without you providing another working logic board for swapping. See the blinking buttons common issues section for more info.
Mesh cleaning and customization
Every mail-in repair gets a little detailing and cleaning to the best of our abilities using 99% isopropyl alcohol and very tiny tweezers. Want to color your mesh? See the Mesh section for more info.
Fast and Affordable Service that You Can Watch
Forget about paying hundreds of dollars and waiting for weeks to end up with a "refurbished" HomePod with the same potential faults. Our repairs are livestreamed on YouTube, then shipped out the next day!
Fix it Yourself
Visit my YouTube channel for videos showing how to diagnose and repair many of the issues covered here, or catch a live stream repair! You're also invited to my discord server to get help, share your results, and anything else. The Common Issues section covers all of the common repairs and parts needed.
Get it Fixed for You
1: Check Repair Estimates to see if your issue is repairable first! 2: Send me an email with what is wrong with your HomePod. *If you haven't gotten a response within 48 hours, it may have been missed, blocked, or sent to spam, feel free to send me another message! 3: Carefully pack and ship your HomePod to my UPS mailbox address (all carriers accepted) as shown below. You can either include / send me your own return shipping label, or I can roll it into the repairs. You must include #341 in the address! Nic's Fix 12819 SE 38th St #341 Bellevue, WA 98006
4: I'll let you know when it arrives and do the work same-day on stream. 5: I'll update you again once complete if repairs were as estimated for payment2 and return shipping. If things aren't going as planned, we can re-estimate and proceed, or halt and do no repairs for no charge. 6: Your HomePod will be on it's way back to you the next day! Once you get it back, leave a review on TrustPilot! See shipping tips for best practices when shipping HomePods to prevent damage in transit.
Repairs from all over the world are accepted, whether you want to send in your whole pod, or just the component that needs repair...though shipping may get expensive. Below you'll find a list of others known to also offer repairs. Feel free to contact me to be added! *I provide no promises or guarantees for others' work, only my own!* United Kingdom: Dwight Grant [email protected] France: Quentin https://www.sauvemonmac.com/ [email protected]
All parts and labor are guaranteed for 6+ months.1 If I can't fix it, you don't pay!
Packing and Shipping Your HomePod
Sufficiently pack your HomePod whenever shipping it to avoid any damage. The original boxes work well when used properly and packed well inside another box, but good packing ALL around just a HomePod works just as well.
If you are shipping with the original box, with power cable installed, the trick is to coil the cable up, then stuff the cable into the box, then place the HomePod inside.
*Try to keep the any of the cable from popping out as you insert the HomePod, otherwise it will sit on the cable and can deform the mesh.
Once you have the lid on your original box, flip it upside-down and tape the lid onto the bottom to keep it all from coming loose in transit.
*If the lid comes loose, it gives too much room for your HomePod to move around, and allows the power cable to creep up the box and possibly deform your mesh.
You can remove and reconnect the power cable on your HomePod for simpler, safer packing if desired. To remove the power cable, first disconnect from power, then place the HomePod on a solid surface. Hold the HomePod down with one hand, then firmly grasp and pull or yank the power cable with your other hand. To reinstall the power cable, simply re-insert it the correct orientation, and push the connector into the HomePod until it makes a loud click.
How to Pack Pod w/ Cable in Original Box
Pack it Well, All Around
Original Box Cut in Half; Correct
Original Box Cut in Half; Inorrect
How to Disconnect & Reconnect Cable
Avoid Doing This
The following are all of the issues encountered or reported, and any known ways to diagnose and repair. You can right-click and open each image in a new tab for a larger view.
Flashing Volume Lights and Boot Loops- NO KNOWN FIX YET
Symptoms: HomePod will power on, but ends up with either boot loops, or flashing / blinking volume lights. Won't factory reset. Arbitrarily Irrepairable... Apple has not publicly confirmed what the root cause of this is, and no one outside of Apple knows for certain yet, but, based on multiple reports with different behaviors, I think there are a few reasons why your HomePod would end up with this; The most likely cause is an interupted. Less likely, a failing A8 SoC or it's BGA. I cannot find replacement A8 SoC chips for the HomePod, and the A8 SoC is married to the NAND, so even with new chips there is no known way to restore their software yet. Software Repair Attempts: Apple has not released any restorable firmware / software for original HomePods, the OTA's from ipsw.me are unsuitable for restore, and the firmware for the Mini is incompatible...so whether this is a software, or hardware issue, there is no publicly known way to repair this! It is physically possible, there is USB and UART access via the pins on the bottom of the HomePod, and when connected to a Mac or PC, various software detects and recognizes a HomePod is connected, but there are no restorable IPSWs publicly available to restore from when you get this far! I made a reddit post showing my attempt following a github guide to connect to HomePod via USB. I've been unsuccessful dumping the firmware from working HomePods, tools like iPwnDFU seem to not work. Since HomePod uses the A8 SoC, it should be permanently vulnerable to checkm8 exploits. Feel free to contact me if you are interested in giving it a try, I can give you remote access to a Mac, Windows, or Linux device connected to a good and bricked HomePod via USB. Hardware Repair Attempts: Myself and others have tried baking / reflowing every chip on bricked logic boards multiple times with no success. I have replaced the PMIC on the logic board with one from an iPhone 6 and found, while this part is compatible (lol) this did not resolve the actual issue. User "mlogicrepair" shared in our discord their progress attempting to replace the A8 SoC. /u/dzsenos had their A8 SoC and NAND professionally reballed and it did not resolve the issue. Why can't Apple just let us restore them?
Debug Port Under Rubber Foot of HomePod
Finder Unable to Restore
Used PMIC from iPhone 6 Works but Same Issue
"mlogicrepair" with old A8 SoC and Storage NAND off
No Power - Shorted S.B. Diode
Symptoms: No power, no lights, and no response. Power draw at the outlet will be around 2-10 Watts. If left plugged in for some time, the side of the HomePod gets slightly warmer. Diagnosis: Diode is located on the amplifier board. Use a multimeter in continuity test mode to test if diode is shorted by placing one probe onto the larger pin of the diode, and the other probe on one of the two smaller pins of the diode. If meter shows it's shorted, move probe from first small pin to other small pin. If you still see a short, remove the diode and test with the diode off the board. If just the diode shows shorted and not the board, replace the diode. Repair: Replace shorted diode with new 60V 5A S.B. Diode, can replace with part number "PDS560-13". Video guide available on YouTube. Root Cause: Why this diode fails in HomePods is unknown. These diodes' failure mode is to short when overvolted or overheated. It's possible the diode is not suited for the task or there was a bad batch of diodes. Comparing HomePods that come in for repair for unrelated issues, if their s.b. diode is still working, it usually is much newer or older than diodes that have already failed. I've only seen diodes with date codes "1746K" and "1748K" fail, though correlation isn't always causation, so it's recommended to replace this diode regardless of condition.
Diode Location Inside HomePod
Diode Location On Removed Amp Board
Diode Date Code
No Power - Blown Power Supply Fuse
Symptoms: No power, no lights, and no response. Power draw at the outlet will be 0 Watts. Diagnosis: Fuse is located on the underside of the power supply board. Use multimeter in continuity mode to test if fuse was blown open. Repair: If fuse is blown you should replace it with another "T3.15AH250V" fuse. Root Cause: The fuse will blow as a result of a surge from the AC power source. A quality surge protector should help prevent this. Power strips alone provide no protection.
Fuse Location On Power Supply
Probe Points While Installed
No Power - Short on Logic Board
Symptoms: No power, no lights, and no response. Power draw at the outlet may be a few Watts. You may hear a quiet ticking / squealing sound from the logic board. Logic board may start to warm up. Diagnosis: I have only seen two HomePods with No Power caused by this...in both cases, there was a shorted capacitor on the logic board. Both logic boards shorts were in different locations. You should be able to locate them with traditional short-finding methods like a thermal camera or applying flux or alcohol to the board and looking for smoke or bubbles. Repair: Replace any shorted components! Since there are no schematics, the exact replacement components are unknown. You can harvest them from a bricked logic board, or ask me to check with a parts board! I have a brief repair video showing diagnosis and repair for one on YouTube. Root Cause: Given that I've only seen this issue twice, both times from different shorts on the logic board, I'm guessing this is simply a case of capacitors just going bad. It happens.
Bad Cap Location on One Logic Board
Flux Smokes When Applied to Shorted Cap
Popping, Clicking, Death Farts, & Crackling - DC Offset (Failing Capacitors)
Symptoms: "Death Farts" or a loud buzzing sound followed by a restart as a result of too much DC offset. Usually accompanied with loud popping while going in our out of standby every ~10 minutes. Popping alone is not a cause for concern, but when there are "death farts", it means the DC offset has grown out of spec due to failing filtering capacitors and they need replaced. Diagnosis: 1: Remove the subwoofer and place it to the side, carefully reconnect everything and power on the HomePod. 2: With the HomePod powered on, not in standby, and subwoofer connected, measure the DC voltage with a multimeter from the subwoofer speaker terminals. There is a place to probe on the woofer, where the speaker wire is soldered on. Polarity does not matter. The amp IC's input is rated for up to +/-18mV DC, which amplifies to the woofer at around +/-200mV DC. More than this can cause damage to components and should warrant replacing the filtering capacitors. Repair: There are four capacitors that filter this DC in the audio signal before it's amplified and sent to the speaker. They are located on the amplifier board, between the DAC and AMP chips. If you measured a significant amount of DC, you need to replace them with new capacitors of 10uF, size 1206, X7R, 5-10%, rated for 16v or better. I have been using EMK316AB7106KL-T with great success,consistently resulting in <5mV of DC offset. I have a repair video replacing these capacitors on YouTube. There is a big black resistor on the amp next to the subwoofer connector you should also inspect,on occasion I have found these to be damaged. It is a 10Ohm, 1Watt, 1% Tolerance, 200V rated, 1218 size resistor, and can be replaced with part number RCL121810R0FKEK. It's resistance can be measured while still installed on the board to confirm. You will also want to inspect your subwoofer speaker for damage to the voice coil from too much DC, see the next Common Issue below for more detail on that. Root Cause: DC offset is when the amplifier has a DC voltage across the speaker output. When quiescent, normally the subwoofer rests in a neutral middle of it's magnetic field, but dc offset will cause it to be displaced forward or backward from that mid-point, heating up the voice coil, impacting amplifier and speaker performance, making them work harder, and resulting in the "pop" sound as the amp is turned on or off as part of standby mode. If DC offset is not repaired by replacing these capacitors, it can eventually grow and damage more components. I have a livestream of a repair where it needed all new capacitors, resistor, and subwoofer here.
Subwoofer Probe Points
Testing for DC Offset
Capacitors Location On Amp Board
Blown Resistor on Amp Board
No Bass and/or Fast Clicking - Damaged or Dead Subwoofer Speaker
Symptoms: May include low, missing, or dirty sounding bass, clicking, or ticking sounds. Diagnosis: Two easy tests to tell if your subwoofer speaker is bad; 1: Gently push the speaker straight in, not too much, and release a few times; This should feel perfectly smooth, and make no sound, otherwise your speaker is almost certainly dead. 2: Inspect the condition of the voice coil through the hole in the side of the subwoofer speaker basket; A vibrant, uniform copper color is a sign of a healthy voice coil! If your subwoofer is damaged, it is likely from DC Offset, which should also be diagnosed per the Common Issue above. Repair: I'm not aware of any off the shelf replacement speakers, you will likely need to source one from another broken homepod. Be sure you diagnose and repair any DC Offset before replacing your subwoofer. Root Cause: Most often a result of too much DC Offset! Sometimes they can also just fail on their own eventually, but it is rare.
Good Voice Coil
Burned Voice Coil
Voice Coil Inspection Port on Woofer
Do the Doof Test
No Bass - Short Near Amp IC
Symptoms: No Bass whatsoever. Diagnosis:On a few no bass amp repairs, I've found the same component shorted out, see photo below. Repair: Check if you have the same short, and if so, replace it. I think this is a 27uF capacitor smd size 0805, but I am unsure. Hit me up if you know! Root Cause: Unknown.
Amp IC Location on Amp Board
No Bass - Dead Amplifier IC
Symptoms: It's rare for the amp IC to be the source of any problems, unless it is obviously damaged, you should first diagnose for other issues described above. Diagnosis: Amp IC is located on the bottom side of the amp board. The amp IC may or may not have obvious visual damage and there is no great way to diagnose without replacing it. HomePods will power on with the amp IC removed! Do not be fooled by the PIN1 identifier mark in the bottom left corner of the chip. Repair: The OEM amp IC (part number 98-0431) is available on Aliexpress for a limited time. Part number IR4312M is available from multiple component sellers and is also a suitable alternative, but is being discontinued. Root Cause: The amp IC can fail on it's own, or if it's subject to too much DC voltage as a result of failing capacitors. More info on that in the DC Offset Common Issue above!
Amp IC Location on Amp Board
A Clearly Dead Amp IC
Amp IC Pin 1 Identifier
No Sound - Dead STM32L Controller IC
Symptoms: Powers on, but there's no sound from any of the speakers. Diagnosis: I haven't found great ways to diagnose this part for certain yet, and I've only had one in so far. The letters on the "STM32L051C8T7" chip were unevenly worn, making me think it had ran hot. Repair: "STM32L051C8T7" is available from AliExpress, currently unsure of whether it needs reprogrammed! here. Currently on backorder from mouser and digikey. Root Cause: Due to the rare nature of this failure I'm guessing it simply dies on it's own.
Controller Location on Amp Board
Replacing and Customizing the Mesh
Want to replace your mesh? Perhaps give it a little color! How to Replace Mesh: I have a video guide on removing and reinstalling the mesh here! Customization: Rit's DyeMore for Synthetics gives great resutls with deep, rich colors on the white mesh, top plastic cover, and power cable. The rubber base does not take color well. The All-Purpose Dye also does not work well and results in a muted, washed-out look! 1: Remove your top cover, mesh, and power cable from the homepod. 2: Find something to slip the mesh on, ideally another empty homepod shell. Put weights in it to keep it from floating in the dye bath. Find something to sit it on in a pot so it's not directly in contact with the pot, but still able to fully submerge. 3: Bring pot of water to ~200f, mix in dye, then put mesh into dye bath. Stir for 15-30 minutes, then pull out mesh, rinse, and allow to dry before reinstallation. 4: For the top cover, wash it with clean water and soap, then dry, then put some tape on the adhesive side to dunk it into your dye bath a few times. Rinse off with water and repeat until desired shade is achieved. 5: For the power cable, you can dunk the length of the cable into the dye bath excluding the plugs on each end. Rinse and repeat until desired shade is achieved. Allow a few days to dry before use!
"You ever wonder why we're here?"
Rattling / Dirty Bass, or Touch / Display Issues - Damaged Top Frame or Cable
Symptoms: HomePod may or may not be working fine. You may hear rattling when you shake it, or have touch / display issues, even making it appear that the HomePod isn't powering on or only briefly powers on and bootloops. Diagnosis: Pull your logic board out and check for broken loose plastic. You can try to glue and plastic weld the broken parts back together, or replace the top basket entirely. Thoroughly inspect logic cable, display cable, and connectors for any damage. Repair: Not recommended to ignore this otherwise the logic board can shift enough to push the display cable into the frame and cut into it, causing weird power / display / touch issues. Root Cause: Usually this is from some of the frame holding the logic board breaking off as a result of drop damage. Ensure you pack your Pod properly whenever shipping it!
Broken Plastic From logic Board Frame
Display Cable Cut From Board Shift
Help! I took my own HomePod apart and now there's No Sound or Power!
Often times the main ribbon cable that connects the logic board to the amplifier board, or another component, has been damaged or improperly reinstalled. Damage: Thoroughly inspect the entire ribbon cable for any tears, cracks, or other damage. This cable is commonly damaged from rough handling when disconnecting the logic board, where the end of the cable connecting to the logic board will crack / tear. Another common mistake is accidentally damaging the ribbon cable while trying to pry the top basket off. Finally, check that your Microphone board is not damaged, this can cause unexpected behavior, lack of sound, and boot loops. Improper Installation: The most common mistake made when reassembling your HomePod is an incorrect installation of the main ribbon cable. On the amplifier board connector, the locked position will actually look open, and unlocked actually looks closed! Verify you have properly locked the cable in by pressing the locking clip down, and that the white line on the cable is level with the top of the connector! Improper installation may lead to permanent damage resulting in no sound or power. I've even done this once myself and lost both the amp and logic board's sound, and have yet to figure out how to repair it.
Torn Cable From Pulling on Logic Board
Damaged Cable from Prying Top Basket
Unlocked, Crooked Cable
Locked, Level Cable
Don't Do This!
I did my own repairs and lost ___ part! What is it?
If you attempted your own repairs and lost a part in the process, let me know and I can help you identify what it is to the best of my ability.
0.1uF Size 0402 Capacitor
*shipping not included. Prices are based on "best case and most likely scenario." More involved repairs may be charged extra.
Shipping: Usually $10-$30 Each Way
Shipping is not included in any repair estimates. I usually see shipping cost between $10-$30 each way depending on weight and distance. You can purchase your own return shipping label and provide it to me, or I can include return shipping in the repair charge. Buying a shipping label in store will cost more than purchasing a shipping label online. I use pirateship.com, it's entirely free, I get labels and insurance from UPS and USPS for even less, and it's worked reliably.
The most common issue HomePods come in for. Will diagnose and repair whatever is causing no power, and check for any DC Offset and repair if needed. More technical info in the no power section!
Popping, Fart of Death, Crackling: $60
Repair for symptoms including; "Death farts", crackling sound when playing music, loud "pop" sound whenever it goes in and out of standby, and other bass issues. Typically involves disassembly / reassembly, diagnosing DC Offset and replacing filtering capacitors. Will also replace s.b. diode to prevent future no-power issues. You do not need to get your HomePod repaired if you just have the popping sound and it's almost too quiet to hear, and you experience no other issues. This is normal. If you do experience issues, and / or the popping is rather noticable, it is likely a sign of failing capacitors resulting in an increasing DC offset, and should be repaired before any damage occurs. More info in the popping section!
No Bass: $60-$80
If your HomePod sounds like it's missing the bass and needs a new woofer or amplifier, this is usually the most involved and expensive repairs will get. We'll try to repair your board before replacing it. Will not exceed $80 even if your woofer and/or amplifier board needs replaced entirely. Includes checking for DC Offset issues that may have caused it, and replacing s.b. diode to prevent future no-power issues.
Color Customization: $30
Want me to color your white HomePod something else? For an extra $30 you can pick any color from Rit's DyeMore for Synthetics line and I'll get it done for you! Note that I do not offer this as a standalone service, only as an add-on for existing repair or maintenance! Do-it-Yourself info in the mesh section!
Flashing / Blinking Volume Lights and Boot Loops: No Known Fix Yet
No known fix for blinking / flashing volume buttons and boot loops, I am unable to offer repairs for this unless you can provide another HomePod for parts with a good logic board to swap for you. More information in the blinking lights common issue section. I urge you to contact Apple to help us with a solution!
Just Board Repair: Contact Me
Want to take your own HomePod apart, but not sure about the board repair? Send in just the board and pay less on repairs! *Boards with prior repair attempts may be charged extra.
Got Something Else?
While I specialize in HomePod repairs, I also do many basic repairs on computers and phones! Contact me with what you need and we'll get it fixed!
Want to say thanks?
Click the speaker below to donate via PayPal! Or, send in your parts to help others, I'll pay for shipping. You can also donate to my CashApp at $NicsFix. Anything helps towards the cost of tools, parts, and more broken homepods, to share new and higher quality repairs!